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Archive for March, 2014

Time to get the tripod out!

Well, my reliable V100 iron arrived on Thursday from Wawak. That was a day earlier than expected! I also got a follow up call from them to see if everything was peachy with my order – awesome and I will definitely be ordering from them again. It is hard to find reasonable shipping to Alaska, and I am not getting started on my rant about how USPS has the same rates to Alaska as to the rest of the country…

I am enamored with Tilly’s new Coco pattern – I made adjustments to my first version and completed a second version with plans for at least 2 more! My Sammy, Charlotte, and Blair outfit is a success and done. There were minor alterations to Blair – mainly just petite adjustments, but I did have to completely redo Sammy with both an FBA and swayback adjustment. Once I get all my pictures together, I’ll be outlining the petite adjustments in detail.

For now, the sun is out, it actually feels a little warm, and I’m going to enjoy the nice weather!

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Pressing is not ironing

Something I learned from sewing. What a difference it makes! Now I take the time to press each seam as I sew it – it’s kind of a pain, but totally worth it. What’s the difference? When you iron, you are gliding the iron in a continuous motion over the fabric, when you press, you lift the iron and then let it rest for a few seconds on each area that you are smoothing out. I have been using a mini Rowenta that I picked up at Joann’s on sale, and I’ll continue to use that for interfacing, but it just steams on one temperature – high. I’ve been able to get away with using that as I also use a silk organza press cloth between my iron and my fabric. Still, that won’t work with everything, especially since I want to start sewing with more delicate fabrics.

I did some research on a couple of irons, and narrowed it down to 2. The Hot Steam SGB-600 currently on sale at Wawak for $89, or the Reliable V100 Digital Vapor regular price $139 – that is the manufacturer’s price that I saw over several sites online. Ultimately, I went with the Reliable – it has some great reviews from other sewers, and I didn’t want to deal with a separate hanging water tank. The reservoir in the Reliable seems to be a pretty good size. The best part? Threads magazine has a coupon code for 20% at Wawak good until 3/31/14! Even though I had extra shipping costs (but still reasonable given the weight of the order) I still came out ahead and it will be here Friday, Monday latest!

All you lucky peeps in the lower 48 get free shipping on orders over $100 – it’s a great time to stock up!

 

Coco came calling

Just because I like a bit of alliteration! It was going to be Blair, Charlotte and Sammi – however only Blair was ready, although both Charlotte and Sammi are close! I happened upon this site by Tilly and the Buttons while looking at the Great British Sewing Bee. Tilly was a contestant on the first season. I just love the look of her Blog and all the great info she has, but most of all I was smitten with Coco. Yes, I just had to drop everything and sew that baby right up. I opted for the PDF version and everything fit together nicely. I used a combination of drafted for sizing and finished measurements to determine what size to start for my wearable muslin.
Ta Da!
cocof1

cocof2
Looks great easy, beltless and barefoot – even better belted with heels or boots!
I love this pattern and find it to be flattering for a wide range of figures. My fabric was a reversible acrylic/spandex doubleknit with a sweatery hand on one side and mini-stripe and smooth on the other. It was from my stash and I didn’t have enough for long sleeves – hence the 2 tone sleeve. After joining the shoulders, the waist taper was too low. The easiest way to fix was to cut apart and take in a 1/2″ seam. Love that reversible fabric! I used the lightning stitch on my Juki exceed, and you cannot even see where the fabric joins. Remarkably, it also retains the same stretch factor. I opted to sew most of this on my sewing machine as the double knit lay better/flatter when pressed open. I could have left the hems raw, but ended up with a coverstitch hem. I like the slightly weighted effect it gives. I am totally looking forward to at least 2 more versions after drafting in a few fit changes – I have become very picky about how clothes fit now that I’m sewing them myself!

The fit issues I have are because of my bone structure and posture. I’ve always had an overly erect stance, shoulder to shoulder width of 14, and measuring crease to crease, Front – 12″ Back – 12.5″, then from my short waist down, my proportions are in the “normal” and not petite range. My big goal this year is to learn and document as much as I can about addressing petite bodice fitting issues. I have not found patterns to have the lengthen/shorten lines in the area that I need to adjust. It is strange that a pattern can have the correct total circumference, and still not fit. What I think I need is to remove from the center back, and neck, shorten the armhole area, reduce shoulder width, and then extend back out at the underarm seam. I think I’m also going to have to draft in a bust dart and rotate that out somewhere as I am currently larger than a B and I still want that easy fitting dartless style. Looking closely at the shoulders, they seem to be sitting back a tad and I might want to experiment with lengthening the back shoulder and shortening the front shoulder to maintain the same total height.

It really feels good to be excited about sewing again!
Coco Flickr set