what's next?

and it’s saying “dress!!!”. Would you believe that dress was already Named Leini

I fell in love with this pattern, OK, I admit, it’s that whole collection! This dress is a mostly a simple shift. The angled front pleats are what really make this dress something special. It’s just the right touch to distinguish this dress from all the other shifts out there.  I’m doing my best to stick to one of my resolutions to not buy any more patterns unless I’m planning on using them right away! Yeah, I should have been doing that from the start – with fabric too. What appeals to me most about this collection, is that it is both simple and sophisticated. So far I have found the drafting and fit to be excellent. These are PDF patterns, and I really appreciate that most patterns print over 12 pages – nice to save on paper and ink.

lined pleat

The instructions included are for lined/unlined bodice. My version is self-lined bodice  and nylon tricot for the skirt. This was sewn entirely on my sewing machine as sometimes the serged seam adds bulk that shows with pressing on a light weight knit like this. I used a universal needle (80) ,  lightened up the pressure a tad, straight stitch 2.8 for all seams except the waist – used the lighting bolt stitch there. I chose those stitches as the dress is loose fit and completely lined so I didn’t need to worry about stress on seams or stitches popping.

This was my first time to line a bodice without any handstitching! I owe it all to Made by Rae and her fab tutorial

Pattern Alterations: For reference, I am 5’4″, frame on the smaller side of normal, short-waisted (back waist length is barely 15″, narrow back, normal waist to hip length. Usual adjustments for me are to remove as much as an inch(sometimes more) in the armhole depth/midriff area. This pattern, I removed 2cm (.75 inches) and that will need to be replaced at waist level when I make my next version of this dress. The elastic is sitting as an empire waist – the model photo shows the waist to be at or slightly above the navel. I didn’t muslin the pattern, so had to remove all the extra length from the shoulder. Now the neck is higher than I’d like (still comfortable), waist a little high, and length a little shorter than I had planned. Despite all that, I still love this dress and can see myself living in this all summer. I wonder if I have any really big sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat!

One more week to finish the dress for the LWD contest – guess I better quit getting side tracked!


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